Street Urchin, Manchester: ‘A place where good things happen’ – restaurant review


The green shoots of recovery are plain to see at this favourite Manchester haunt

Street Urchin, 72 Great Ancoats Street, Manchester M4 5BG (07470 804979). Starters £6.50-£9.50, mains £13-£17.50, desserts £6, wines from £19.95

In the quiet months of lockdown, when they were only putting out takeaways, Kevin and Rachel Choudhary still had to tend to their restaurant, or more precisely the potted plants with which it is filled. There were the ones in the rough-hewn macramé baskets hanging over the bar, and the others in their thickly glazed ceramic pots, converting the sunlight from the floor-to-ceiling windows into mad growth thrown out in all directions. There were the tubs of herbs along the front of the open kitchen, destined for the pot. Sometimes we talk about restaurants as living creatures with a distinct pulse that needs to be nurtured. Street Urchin really did contain life forces that had to be cared for.

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